Last April Jay and I went to Marrakesh, Morocco for four days after spending a week in Paris. I had fantasized for a few years about visiting North Africa after reading the incredible memoir Stolen Lives by Malika Oufkir. Although the book deals with the tough subject of political imprisonment, the rich history and depiction of the Moroccan people and their way of life transfixed me. The pink color of the sand, the exotic foods and spices, snake charmers, camels and huge markets were what I envisioned. I had also heard that Morocco was very friendly to western tourists unlike some other Arab countries. My fantasy vision of Morocco was definitely fulfilled upon arrival, however I had not expected the amount of organized chaos that is commonplace in the city. The Medina, or walled old city of Marrakesh was a maze of tiny streets that are often so narrow a car cannot pass through. Donkey drawn carriages are as commonplace as cars. Traffic is crazy and crossing the street can entail taking your life into your hands as there are few traffic lights and crosswalks - you just have to make a run for it and hope for the best! Everywhere you turn merchants are calling to you from little stalls trying to make a sale. Small children are begging to take you everywhere and anywhere for a few cents. The call to prayer that echos through the city can be a little startling and surreal when it wakes you from your slumber at 5 am.
The craziness and frenetic nature of the packed streets and squares of Marrakesh is a feast for the senses. The landscape is quite remarkable with the vast pink sands of the desert juxtaposed against the backdrop of the snow capped Atlas mountains. Vendors selling dried fruits, spices, sweets, meat, fresh fruit juices and various unidentifiable street food, are everywhere. Unfortunately we did not try any of the street food except for some fresh citrus and avocado juices (we were warned our stomachs could not handle anything more!). I know avocado juice sounds odd, but it is delicious. It is a sweet milkshake type drink made with avocado and condensed milk. When I finally attempt to make one at home I will post the recipe.
One of the most common styles of cooking in Morocco is in a conical shaped clay or cast iron tagine. Tagines cook on a stove top and are used for braising and simmering meats, seafood and vegetables with various spices. The lid's shape actually promotes the circulation of moisture and steam while cooking. Once the food is cooked, it is often served in the base of the tagine with a side of couscous. This past Christmas we received a tagine as a gift so we could recreate some of our favorite foods from our trip at home. Most spices and ingredients used in Moroccan food (paprika, cumin, allspice and turmeric) are pretty easy to find in your local food stores. They use hot and sweet spices in the same dish, as well as savory ingredients such as olives paired with sweet ones like raisins, apricots or dates. Every Moroccan dish is a sensory journey made up of layer upon layer of flavor. One ingredient that is a very common flavor enhancer is preserved lemons. You can make your own preserved lemon by pickling fresh lemons with salt in water, or you can buy them at specialty grocery stores like Whole Foods. This is a great dish to try if you want to break out of your ordinary routine and try something exotic and bold. It is actually remarkably simple to pull together once you have all the ingredients. You can easily use a cast iron or ceramic pot with a lid instead of a traditional tagine to prepare this. If you are intrigued by tagines but don't want to cook one at home, make a visit to Tangierino in Charlestown, MA. They offer quite a few different tagines in an atmosphere that is heavily decorated in Moroccan paraphernalia (they even have a hookah lounge next door). I am including some pictures from my trip along with the recipe.
Unfortunately, the tagine did not photograph that well, but trust me it tastes amazing!
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Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemon Ingredients: 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon turmeric 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves of garlic, minced 1 onion, chopped the peel from 1 preserved lemon, rinsed in cold water, pulp discarded and sliced very thin 1/2 cup pitted green olives sliced in half 1/2 cup dried apricots, sliced 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, rinsed, dried and chopped 1-2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1/2 cup chicken broth salt and pepper to taste Instructions: Heat the oil in a tagine or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the spices: cumin, paprika, ginger, turmeric and cinnamon and stir to coat the onion and garlic mixture. It will be very dry but that's ok. Stir for about a minute to toast the spices. Turn up heat to medium high-high and add the chicken thighs. Cook for about 2-3 minutes per side. Add the chicken broth, apricots, olives and preserved lemon peel. Stir to mix thoroughly. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for about 40 minutes. Uncover, add fresh cilantro and continue to cook for about 5-10 minutes or until some of the liquid has evaporated and the stew thickens slightly. Serve over couscous. Serves 2-4 depending on the amount of chicken used.
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Spices for sale in the square
A common street scene
The Atlas Mountains in the distance
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